Fleur Du Cap Unfiltered Semillon 2012

Ok - this is nothing like the Semillons back home (Oz, where they're lean and grapefruity or toasty and linseedy). Nor is it anything like the Semillon blends from France (lean again, with grass and citrus and a little honey, unless of course it's botrytised and that's a whole different ball game). It's uniquely South African, I suppose, but having tasted very little varietal Semillon from the country (it only makes up about 1% of total wine grape production for SA), I couldn't say that with much authority.

It's unusual - medium bodied, milky, with some sweet oak, and finishing only just off-dry. There's a little sweet oak and some nice leesy nuances, and then a whiff of sulphur that isn't off-putting in the slightest - more savoury and funky, showing some thoughtful winemaking. It's Chardonnay in disguise, I believe, but the fruit is more floral and pear-like, so not completely pulling it off - which is probably a good thing - after all, there's plenty of Chardys around, and it's lovely to try something a little novel.

Drink now or for 2 years
50AED (purchased tax free)
15/20

Finding a slice of Baghdad in Dubai

When I started the year, I thought over a few of my highlights of the last. Can you remember me mentioning Arva Ahmed of Frying Pan Adventures? Well, I've recently been on a second tour with Arva, and it was even better than the last. So much so, that she has aroused in me a desire for a whole series of posts rather than just one about the tour itself.

She's an inspirational lass. She shows her clients that there is quite a bit more to our Asian restaurants of Dubai than a cheap curry or a tasty shawarma take-out. And as I write this from my hotel in Adelaide, this is reinforced ten-fold. I started thinking about Masqouf (you'll find out more about that below). And I thought - I have a few hours... Maybe I could go and get an Iraqi hit somewhere? But no. There is not a single Iraqi restaurant in Adelaide. In fact, there only seem to be about 8 middle eastern restaurants total, and that counts shoddy corner kebeb places that only get haunted for Souvlaki at 1am when the pub closes. There is one Iraqi restaurant in Melbourne (my home town), and they serve kebabs, humus and pizza. Sydney also seems to have just one, but they have a reputation for snarling at customers rather than serving them.

Dubai really is an incredible place for food, and after a few months of dining in a well of mediocrity in this city, Arva has helped me realize this again. The challenge is to quash that Australian (and probably European too) ideal of needing to have a glass of wine with a meal. Liquor licensing in Dubai is limited (as you would probably expect in a Muslim country), and if we want to get the best of what Dubai has to offer - particularly when it comes to small, family owned restaurants and traditional cuisine - we really do need to haul out of the fancy hotels and give up the vino now and then. And so, post one, dedicated to Miss Frying Pan, is about Iraqi cuisine, which you will never find accompanied by a rosewater and gold champagne cocktail at a glamolith of the Dubai hotel industry. We're talking a simple, cheap, tea-drinking experience in the crummy old streets of North bank Dubai. Firstly, I'll share a little about what she taught me about Masqouf, and then, what I have learned since I left her tour.

• Masqouf (also spelled meskhuf and masgouf) is an Ancient Sumerian way of cooking fish. Shabout, Boni or Katan (varieties of Carp) caught in the Euphrates or the Tigris are split open, and then fired on spiked beside logs and embers of smoking fig or apricot wood. They are positioned alongside the flame rather than on it, butterflied and vertical, meaning that the cooking is slow, and imparts a gentle smokey flavour. What you end up with is soft, mild and incredibly tender, flaky white fish, which is served with a tomato and green mango pickle. On the night, Arva explained its emotional link to the famous street of Abu Nuwas on the Tigris. I'm not going to tell you what that is - you're going to have to book the tour and let her tell you herself.

It opened up a whole new world of carp to me. I had previously only associated it with the muddy-flavoured and super-survivor-envorionmental-disaster-of-the-Murray-River fish that ate all the food of our indigenous fish, thereby killing them off little by little. And then I also picture it as the $5 per kilo monstrous creature being shoved through fish mincers in stores in my local street for Gefilte, which was this stuff that basically ended up looking like poo preserved in a jar (I'm sorry if you like it... really, very sorry...), or possibly in a slightly prettier version if it was home made. But as I'm not Jewish and never been invited over for Passover (and now, I would imagine, after my previous comment, I probably never will be.... Sorry again) I can't comment on that.



So - Masqouf is the big one to look for. But I've got some more tips for you - and all of these things you can find in various Iraqi restaurants of Dubai.

• Let's start with breakfast (or ryouk). If you're able to make it there in time, that is, or you manage to find a restaurant that serves some of the breakfast dishes all day, you have to try the eggs. Usually the dish will be referred to as makhlama, which loosely translates as omelet, but it goes well beyond what youe would usually whip up in your kitchen. Traditional accompaniments will be minced meat, tomato, broad beans and other vegetables - usually just one or two at a time. The eggs can be scrambled and mixed with the other ingredients, or fried amidst them, or even broken onto the top and baked shakshouka style. Any way, they're good.

If you don't make it in time, that's ok - here's your lunch or dinner checklist.

• Start with qosa, a sesame bread from Mosul. You can dip it in all the usual suspects (humus, moutabel etc), and munch with peppery fat roka leaves, crunchy radish and a small slab of white cheese.
• Kubba Mosul - a bulgar wheat savoury pastry stuffed with minced meat originating in the city of Mosel. Kubbe and kibbeh are basically the same thing, but they will vary in shape and size from country to country, and can differ in their casing (anything from wheat to rice to potato), and their stuffing.
• Fesenjan or fasangoon is Persian in origin, but as the area has always been full of travellers and the regions overlapping, recipes will tend to cross cultures. It is a pomegranate and walnut stew, concentrated and rich, usually served with chicken and rice. Also look for Shorbat Rumman, a pomegranate soup with lentils, meat and spices.
• Quzi is lamb stuffed with rice and spices, often accompanied by raisins and nuts. Sham Quzi is when it comes in a bread dome. This also seems to be known by many other names such as Perde Plau, which in turn resembles the Turkish Perde Pilavi.
• While browsing the meat dishes you might also see the word qawerma. This basically translates as confit, and refers to a fat and salt preserved lamb dish. It's silky smooth but very rich in flavour. Probably not so good on the arteries.
• Ghormeh sabzi (sepzi) - is a herb and spinach stew, flavoured primarily with methi (fenugreek) leaves. Very fragrant. 
• Warning - if you get adventurous and order Basha or pasha, prepare for a nightmare to arrive at the table. We're talking whole calves head, offal and all manner of of offcuts which will make your dish sustainable (don't you love it when the whole beast is used?), but might scare off other diners.
• Taghrib/tashreeb is a liquid stew placed in a dish lined with bread. The bread soaks up the juices while the stew cools, and it's gooey and delicious when done right. Chicken is the popular choice, but you'll find it done with anything from lamb to okra to chickpeas to eggs.
• Eggplants are on every Iraqi menu, and so you'll see the word baytinijan everywhere. If you come across it, Tepsi Baytinijan is the prize - a meat, potato and eggplant layered dish - almost like a moussaka with no cheese and extra tomato.
  
• Kleicha are cookie-like rolls that come with different fillings - either tamur (date) or joz (half-moon with nuts). We are talking the inspiration for the Fig Newton. What a pity they couldn't get it right.
• Kadaif is the iraqi version of Kunafe - vermicelli pastry with mild white cheese and flavoured with rosewater and cardamom and loaded with liquid sugar.

And - where do you go?

• Arbil (also called Arbel and Irbil) Iraqi kebab restaurant seems to be the one favoured by Iraqis. (I stalked their chat board) No website. Phone 04 272 0843, in Deira on Al Muteena st, just down from the Sheraton. More famous for Kebabs than anything else, but Time Out Dubai's review does say you can get goat testicles there... Nice.

• You'll find Samad al Iraqi also in old Dubai, on Muraqabbat Road. They have a pretty hit and miss service record, but their food is pretty special. This is one of the better places for breakfast. I like their Jumeirah restaurant - a monolith with spectacular interior design opposite the Jumeirah Beach Park. But the best thing is that it's the only place I've found masqouf on the south side of the creek.
• Arva's favourite, and I'll agree, the best masqouf I've tried, is at Al Bayt al Baghdadi. They also have a very charming kebab man called Sammi, and a super tomato chutney to partner the masqouf if the tart pickle is not your thing. You can read her review on Baghdadi here.
• There are also a few Iranian restaurants around Dubai, where you might find a little Iraqi food on the menu. One of your best bets would be Al Ennab in Mirdiff, who also do a Masqouf, and Iraqi omelets. 

So - I'd love to hear any input you have - as you can see, I'm a bit of a new-comer to Iraqi cuisine, but an obvious fan. Restaurants? Dishes? Please comment and send me in the right direction.

 

"Simply" not good enough

Don't you love sitting down to some really, really great food?

I love Pierre Gagnaire's food, but not only that, his personal style. Each dish is formulated with balance and finesse. It's haute cuisine, which ever so slightly nudges the pretty end of Molecular Gastronomy without ever going completely into the field. It's also fusion cuisine, nouvelle cuisine, but essentially it's individual. It's clever, creative, modern and often very technical, stretches boundaries but is never disturbing. His style is both relaxed and manic, it's emotional, artistic, changeable. I also love his professional demeanour - the way he both avoids the limelight and yet finds his way into it - the accidental celebrity chef. Famous for his food rather than his television personality or off-screen shenanigans.

I love Reflets, his Dubai restaurant. It's name meaning 'reflections' is perfect - the interior reflects with its carnival-style halls of mirrors and prism-like bathrooms, the sparkling Dubai Creek reflecting the million dollar launches and aging dhow warfage, and on the plate a reflection of Gagnaire's very soul. And again, we see his love of contrast in the interior textures and colours, and also in a way, his choice of venue - in a new area of Old Dubai, on the wrong side of the creek, contradicting where fashion and progress might like to put him with the likes of the other big names around Dubai Marina, Downtown and the DIFC. I love the way Gagnaire attends the restaurant to work several times a year, rather than just float in for a celebrity chef publicity jaunt.

 

On the other end of the spectrum I also love traditional French Cuisine, particularly in its simplest form. Pâté de Foie - so buttery it melts on impact with warm toast, blanquette de veau - creamy and soft enough to feed a baby, salade de tomates - simple, but the essential flavour of a Provincial Summer, soupe à l'oignon with its sodden toast dripping salty Gruyère. Pain au chocolat, coq au vin, île flottante, you know the kind of thing. Delicious. You always know what you're getting, although some times the dishes are better than others. Very rarely (if you choose the wrong place), it's badly done. Recipes that have been cooked for so many years that it's almost impossible to muck them up yourself if you know how to read a cookery book.

But.

I don't love it when incredible chefs serve me good simple food in what is usually a singularly spectacular restaurant, but on this occasion has been shelled out and filled with bland bar tables and conference hall staff, to accommodate the many attendees of a Literary Lunch which is not really lunch. I like all those things mentioned above, but each in their place. Essentially, if I want traditional French food, I'll go to a traditional French bistro. 



I'm referring to Emirates Litfest and the Pierre Gagnaire literary lunch, where the man himself came to show us his newly released book, 175 Home recipes with a twist. And it's my fault I didn't love the event - I should have looked at the name of the book, read the reviews on Amazon. But the intro to the event was "Along with anecdotes of his life and career, Pierre will invite you to taste three-Michelin-star cuisine, both for home dining and chic entertaining." It was easy to make the mistake, and I wasn't the only one who did. I went along expecting three-Michelin-star cuisine, but I got party canapes.

The food was good, tasty. Choux pastry cheese balls (gougeres) and some other simple pastry morsels, toast canapes (one with smoked eel that was quite scrumptious, and another with roasted red peppers which tasted exactly like a chip and dip combination), crumbed and deep-fried marbles of melt in the mouth foie gras, crevettes crus (raw shrimp in a cold and slightly citrussy bisque), mini hamburgers sans bun, avec diced turnips, blanquette de veau with specks of black truffle and pan-seared gnocchi (pronounced 'veal blanket 'by the staff member holding the platter), and an incongruous inclusion of steamed moneybags. Dessert was a selection of tarts in pretty french patisserie style, coconut marshmallows with lime (they were pretty awesome), panacotta, chocolate covered chocolate marshmallows and coffee ice cream dipped in chocolate and dusted with roasted almonds, tasting and looking very like a Magnum mini.



All good food. But all finger-food when we were expecting a sit-down 'lunch' of inspirational food, something like this one experienced by Francine a couple of years ago (Miss Francine of the food lane was a partner in crime on the day), and more importantly, none of it was particularly 'Gagnaire' in style. In fact, I could have cooked every single dish myself (admittedly with effort for some dishes) To combine with that, interaction was minimal - there were a couple of chefs (not Gagnaire) preparing the burgers, some terrine and dumplings, Gagnaire himself only spoke for a few minutes at two points in the day.

I was confused. I questioned him, hoping that maybe this change in style was a new direction with actual meaning for him, so that even if I didn't like it, this change had a good reason for being there. I asked if his decision to veer from his usual sophistication was either a statement referring the recent trends towards organic home grown produce, a fashionable return to tradition and simplicity that we have seen in a home cooking. He did after all open "Twist" in Las Vegas two years ago, which appears to be the foundation for his new book. Did he think we would be likely to see more of this simple cuisine in other Michelin starred restaurants? Or was it merely an indication that he personally was going through a new phase in life? Dare I say, getting older, winding down a little? He is white-haired after all, and we all know how the French like to retire early - although his energy still appears more than vibrant. He said "No", and that he had forgotten all his recipes 'with a twist' already.

 

I took my breath of relief with a tinge of bitterness. I'm so glad that the Pierre Gagniare is not turning from an astounding chef into a great cook. But I paid to see him in his element and it just wasn't right. Why should we digest this cuisine when he himself cannot get behind it? Is this a sign of chefs becoming something they should not be? Driven to the edge of their art by publicity demands, agents, publishers and financiers? And sometimes completely over the precipice altogether? I suppose it's a price of fame, and the celebrity is not the only one who must pay it. And as it is our market, of which I am part, that may well have driven our favourite chefs to where they are, then perhaps I should quite simply get off my high horse and suck it up?

But I can tell you one thing - he is amazing, and I'll give him another chance. I'm going back to the restaurant very soon, and I know I'll love it.

----------------------------

Despite my visit during the Literary Festival, Reflets by Pierre Gagnaire is usually an incredible restaurant, and should be visited. It's not an inexpensive journey, but it will be worth every penny. Open for dinner only, seven days.

Reflets Pierre Gagnaire
Intercontinental Festival City
Garhoud, Dubai
website  (bookings online)
or ph. +971 4 701 1127

If you want to try his cuisine in your own area, you might want to try one of the following:

Paris, Pierre Gagnaire at Hotel Balzac - the flagship - Michelin ***
Paris, Gaya Rive Gauche Seafood restaurant, Michelin * 
Courchevel, Pierre Gagnaire Pour les Airelles Seasonal alpine restaurant, Michelin **
London, Sketch, collaboration with Mourad “Momo” Mazouz, Michelin **
Tokyo, Pierre Gagnaire a Tokyo Contemporary French cuisine at the Ana Intercontinental
Hong Kong, Pierre Modern French at the Manderin Oriental
Seoul, Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul
Las Vegas, Twist by Pierre Gagnaire, Traditional cuisine with Gagnaire flair (more interesting than that described above by the look of the menu.
Saint-Tropez, Colette at Hotel Sezz
Moscow, Les Menus par Pierre Gagnaire at the Lotte Hotel


And when it comes to books:
This is the big one - Re-inventing French Cuisine - only 40 recipes, but more than that, it's a life journey for PG, and gives an insight into why his food is the way it is.
For those who are looking for inspiration rather than recipes, you may prefer Reflections on Culinary Artistry, which is again, full of snippets of life and learning, and some lovely plate presentation.


more photos of the event follow...

 

   

 

Taste Teasers - Can Taste of Dubai impress us this year?

Taste of Dubai season is back. For the last two months, our inboxes have been full of "early bird" offers, "exclusive deals" and "last chance" opportunities to buy two tickets at 99AED. If anyone hasn't heard of Taste of Dubai yet, you're obviously walking around with your eyes closed, refusing to smell the coffee. It's on next weekend, and anyone who likes food will probably be there (unless they like Oasis, in which case they'll be on the sand watching the nice twin bump out all the songs the nasty one used to play around with.)

I've been to 'Taste' twice before - here, and here. Unfortunately, there's still no street food section that to me would give us a more accurate taste of Dubai, but there's a few new restaurants and some other goodies. Which is good, because I've had it up to my armpits with Rhodes' white tomato soup and Rivington's mushy peas. But I couldn't taste them anyway - this year, I'm not around. I'm going to be embarking on an olfactory tour of the Barossa, doing some pretend grape harvesting (I don't really work that hard), and scoffing back way too much purple Shiraz. I'll be back next week, and you can tell me all about it, but just so you get it right, I'd like you to try and get through some of my checklist.

Food

All the dishes are going to be smallish portions, but even so, most people probably won't fit in more than about 6 or 7. Planning is in order people - those port-o-loos are not fit for use as vomitorium - it's too small and stagnant in there, and you'll just start a chain reaction with anyone who has a weak stomach. I've been to a couple of previews, and these are my picks of the bunch.

Entree:

• Prime 68 (Marriott Marquis) Lobster Bisque - a very creamy example of this seafood soup, with intense caramel flavours from the bourbon used (rather than the usual dry sherry or madeira)
• Sonamu (Asiana Hotel) Gimbap – Vegetables and cooked egg are placed on sesame seasoned rice. The ingredients are then rolled in dried seaweed and sliced into bite-sized pieces 
• Toro Toro (Grosvenor House) Ceviche de mariscos a la creme de rocoto - Raw prawns, scallops and calamari cooked by acid in the citrussy 'leche de tigre' marinade with corn, onion and rocoto pepper
• Rivington Grill Coronation Chicken - A scary melange of chicken, mayonaise, curry and sultanas prepared 50 years ago for ER's errr.... Coronation. Served cold. It's an iconic dish, and I'm hoping Rivington Grill can do it well.
• Rang Mahal (Marriott Marquis) Bhuna Baigan Aur Simla Mirch - Roasted Aubergine with peppers and dribbly Burrata, coriander, garlic and kasuri salt. A fusion of Italian and Indian that works very well.
• Izakaya (Marriott Marquis) Edamame Dumplings - soft steamed dumplings filled with creamy mashed edamame beans and served in a delicate miso dashi stock

Mains:

• Seafire (Atlantis) Tenderloin Wellington - Atlantis's uniquely imported beef in pastry with truffle mash
• Mango Tree Massaman Gai - super soft and luscious chicken braised in massaman peanut/curry sauce served with steamed rice.
• Carluccio's Penne Giardiniera - Carluccio’s penne pasta with courgette, chilli, garlic & deep fried spinach balls. I order this every time I go to Carluccios - just can't get enough of it.
• Da Shi Dai Bang Bang Chicken - Shredded chicken & vegetables with spicy peanut sauce. Simple but always good.
• Armani Ristorante (Armani Hotel) Fregola - pasta that looks like large cous cous balls, served with crab, shrimps, carrot, ginger and chives
• Asado (Palace Hotel) Cabrito Asado con Papa Morada de los Andes – Baby Goat (don't get me started on this) with purple potato from Los Andes
• Prime 68 (Marriott Marquis) Slow Braised Short Ribs - a tender baby brick of beef with creamy aged cheddar polenta and refreshing gremolata

Dessert:

• Frevo (Fairmont the Palm) Brazilian Macae Chocolate Cake - The real deal for chocolate lovers, Macae Chocolate is known for its melt in the mouth property and complex flavours. Seriously special chocolate.
• Thiptara (Palace Hotel) Tab Tim Grob – Red rubies (water chestnuts with a special treatment) with jack fruit & palm seed in sweet coconut milk, with crushed ice. Light and sweet - wonderful textures. If you love sago or bubble tea, this is a must.
• Edo Cafe Concept (This will be in the Exhibitors area near the Chef's theatre) Mochi - creamy ice cream (or other frozen sweet treat) wrapped in a thin dough made of glutinous rice flour.
• Asado (Palace Hotel) Helado cacero de Malbec y Dulce de Leche – Malbec (red grape used in wine production) and Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

Stomach liners for after too much drink:

• Thiptara (The Palace Hotel) Thod Maan Goong – Thai deep fried prawn cake served with diced cucumber, peanut, sweet chilli sauce. Not very exciting, but deliciously moreish
• Gaucho (DIFC) Empanadas – Provolone, mozzarella and cheddar with onions and a touch of oregano
• PF Changs Dynamite shrimps - yeah, we've all had them before, but hard to go past. Large battered nuggets of prawns in spicy sauce.
• Ronda Locatelli (Atlantis) Pizza - Not explaining that one. If you don't know what that is, go home.
• Indego (Grosvenor House) Masala Dosa - Probably Dubai's most expensive dosas at 20AED a pop, but made by the chefs at Indego, I'm expecting something special. Thin and crispy rice pancake filled with curried potato and served with coconut tomato chutney.
• Carluccio's Arancini di riso Siciliani - saffron risotto rice balls stuffed with Buffalo mozzarella

Drink

Again, there's going to be plenty on offer, so pace yourselves.

• Hour one - Coffee from Raw, and plenty of mineral water. Put your name down for a session at the MMI beverage theatre.
• Hour two - head to the MMI theatre for an educational drinkie. I like the look of 'Speed tasting' at 7pm-8pm Thursday, Fuller's ales at 1-2pm Friday, or maybe 'Viva Italia' at 3pm. There's a Sake session at 6pm. On Saturday, maybe have a bash at the fun session 'who's wine is it anyway' - a blind tasting at 5pm. Single malts from Macallan are on after at 6pm.
• Hour three - Cocktails with your entrees! Siddharta or Fogo Vivo, followed by more mineral water.
• Hour four - Glasses of vino at various participating restaurants - there's a nice couple at Gaucho to look for. Then keep your hands free for eating mains.
• Hour five - sweet plum infused sake at Izikaya and some dessert. And then lots more water.
• If you're still there at hour six - a little rest and a crisp white from Nederberg in the 'Wine Garden', then back to coffee, which will act as a digestif and give you more room for more food.

Activities

If you like it interactive, there's a few things to aim for in the Kenwood Cookery School. If I was going to be there, I'd like to pick up at least one of the following:

• Thursday 1740-1820 Tom Egerton from Grosvenor House 
• Friday 2200-2240 Atul Kochhar Celebrity Chef and founder of the Marriott Marquis's Rang Mahal 
• Saturday 1600-1640 Alessandro Salvatico Armani Ristorante 

For those who just like to watch, the Chef's Theatre will be going non-stop. But try to head there for 

• Thursday 1940-2010 Gary Rhodes, Celebrity and connected to Grosvenor House - always a good one to watch.
• Friday 1730-1800 Giorgio Locatelli, another celebrity who knows how to perform (from Ronda Locatelli), also apparently a lovely bloke. Then later try and catch the three lads from Rivington Grill, 2050-2120 Simon Conboy, Chris Leicester & Scott Stokes 
• Saturday, you've got to catch Nick Alvis at 1320-1350 Table 9, and BBC Good Food Chef of the Year

Next, you can Dine in the Dark with Andy Campbell. Intriguing. Who knows what he's going to do to you when you're safely blindfolded? Maybe you'll eat escargot for the first time?

There's something going on the entertainment stage at all times, but try and time your session in the wine garden to coincide with the fire dancers at 8pm Thurs, and 7pm and 9pm on Friday and Saturday. Or, because Dubai loves a copy, maybe the Counterfeit Beatles at 5:15 on Saturday.

The Details

So there's your bible. Now, the particulars.

• Taste of Dubai runs from Thursday 4pm to midnight, and Friday and Saturday it opens earlier at mid-day.
• It's at the Media City Ampitheatre
• Cheap tix are all over - as it turns out, that was actually your last chance, and you now have to pay a grand total of 60AED each. But you have to pre-order for that (here) otherwise you'll pay 80 at the door. Once you're inside, you will then have to pay for the dishes and drinks I mentioned above (ranging from about 15AED to 40AED), but most sessions are free - you just have to remember to sign up as soon as you get in. 
• If you want a little extra, you can get a VIP pass, which includes a goodie bag, access to the VIP enclosure (lots of seats for tired legs), 2 free drinks at the VIP bar, and 3 free dishes from any participating restaurant. OR, you can go a little further still, and buy it through Lime and Tonic, who will through in a tour with the super hottie chef (am I allowed to say that? I'm sure he can cook too...) Paul Frangie. Both are 220AED. 

Other posts with information on Taste of Dubai on other Blogs and traditional media can be found through the following links:

Expat Woman
Foodiva
My Custard Pie
Ishita Unblogged
Pear Tree Diaries
Time Out Dubai

Cardamom and pistachio custard tart

This is really so much easier than you would think. I'm not much of a pie maker, and yet, I managed to pull this off without a hitch. There's many steps, but all are very easy. Unfortunately it's a little deviation, in fact a large deviation from my usual gluten free and dairy free options - it's got all the baddies in there, sorry. But my reasoning is that it's an adult's taste, and so we'll only have it when all the kids are in bed and unable to see us sneaking in the naughty stuff.

Ingredients:

• shortcrust pastry (enough to line a flan tin. about 400g)
• 400ml milk
• 1 cinnamon quill
• pinch of saffron threads
• 8 cardamom pods (slightly crushed) 
• 4 small eggs (separated)
• 1 tbsp cornflour
• 1/2 cup caster sugar
• 1 1/3 cups whipping cream
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon powder
• 1/4 cup shelled pistachios
• 4 digestive biscuits
• 1/4 cup soft brown sugar
• 2 tbsp butter
• coarse salt to taste
• pomegranate seeds (optional)

(metric measurements)

Instructions:

1. Roll out the shortcrust pastry and place in a non-stick (or greased and floured) flan tin. Then cover with baking paper and beans/baking beads. Refrigerate.
2. Put the milk, cinnamon, saffron and cardamom in a pot on the stove and bring slowly to the boil, then switch off immediately. Set aside to cool for 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 200ºC.
3. Take the flan out of the refrigerator and blind bake for 15 minutes, then reduce temperature to 180ºC and remove beads and paper and cook for a further 5-10 minutes while you complete the next step.
4. Cream the egg yolks and caster sugar, then add the cornflour and finally the cooled milk (straining as you go), beating on the lowest speed.
5. In a separate bowl, lightly whisk up the egg whites so they are fluffy and voluminous, but not quite to stiff peaks, then fold into other mixture. Pour into the flan, and cook at 180ºC for 20 minutes, or until top begins to brown.
6. Turn down temperature to 110ºC, and cook for a further 20 minutes, or until the custard is firm (but still soft) in the middle. Put aside to cool.
7. Crush the pistachios in a mortar and pestle (or a blender), then add the biscuits, sugar and salt to make a crumble. Toast lightly in a pan with butter until nicely combined and aromatic. Set aside to cool.
8. Whip up the cream and cinnamon powder until thick, then spread over the tart, and follow with the nut crumble. Garnish with pomegranate seeds. Serve cold

Navigating the green mountain - Jebel Akhdar, Oman

Imagine you're just a quiet bloke. You live in the hills, just about as far away from civilization as you can manage. Your electricity trickles in on a single wire that hangs from a concrete pole that is currently being used as a butt-scratching device by the neighbourhood goat. Your water flows from one of ten secret mountain springs through a falaj system as ancient as your stories. Your missus is outside cleaning the guts out of your sacrificial cow with your eldest son. Later, they'll heave it into a pit filled with smouldering coals and cook it until the meat is so soft it dissolves in your hands. The mountain breeze whispers through your open door - it's always open, to your family, friends, and even the feral kittens your daughter likes to bring home. And then you hear your granddaughter chirping from outside - "Jadda, these people want to take photos of me. Do we let them?"

Can you put yourself in that position? Pretend for a moment, that you are this man. The world we live in allows him to move if he wishes, but he stays here, in his village with its peace and tradition. And then, when tourists come, they take photos of his front door, the off-cuts of his forthcoming feast, his front garden, his drainage system, his grand daughter, and even the ruddy goat with the itchy bum. In Australia, he'd set his kelpie on you, probably with a string of invective to accompany. In other places you may get shot for trespassing. And yet, in Oman, even on holy days (we visited over Eid al Adha), when the only words you can say are hello and thank you, this man will smile and shake your hand. Don't ever say that people are unkind in the Middle East. You'd be wrong.

Al Ain is one of around thirty tiny villages scattered in the folds of the Saiq plateau, and one of the better ones to visit, not only because of friendly grandfathers and gorgeous little girls. This village takes up much of the vista that fills your eyes from "Diana's Viewpoint" - famous for the princess who stood there, rather than the picture it presents. It continues its mountain life, suspended in time and apparently space, on the edge of its cliff. It's not just an old village, with it's crumbling stone, timeworn paths, sagging foundations and secret tunnels. It's also a working community. There are fields of corn, wheat and vegetables, tiny orchards of fig and pomegranate with their land eroding and likely to take the trees to the depths of the valley before too long. Further afield you'll also find walnut, palms, grape vines, juniper and roses.

From here in Al Ain, you can also take a relatively easy walk to the nearby village of Al Aqr, and past the spring that feeds crystal clear water to the village. Al Aqr is famous for its roses, which are in bloom by April, and harvested in the traditional fashion just before the worst of the summer begins. At that time you can watch them harvest into terracotta urns for processing. At others, villagers will allow you to stumble through their tiny alleys, over lithic wadis, and almost off the edge of their cliffs, with the most incredible view in the world.



For some reason, even though I've lived nearby in the UAE for 5 years, I had forgotten just how exotic this part of the world can be.

What to do

The region is paradise for trekkers and amateur geologists. For those who want more information on the walks, it's best to buy a guide or ask at your accommodation for a map (this will probably be hand-drawn). The Oman Off-Road Explorer is a bible. You must get a copy if you want to spend any serious time in the area. The maps are excellent, and without it, you will waste all your time driving up the wrong roads. They also have a website where you can ask questions about particular regions (although the site has little information). I have included a map that I have taken from various sources - click on it to zoom.

The better known walks are:

• The little one already mentioned from Al Ain to Al Aqr.
• This one, which will take you a little further and through two more villages, all the way to Saiq.
• There is another good village trek from Wukan to Hadash, through Al Qawrah, but this is at least four hours, and challenging in parts. This free link will show you where to go, and give you the harder option, between the same towns, but around the Ghubra Bowl (amazing but hard!) This area is approached from the north.
• Wadi Bani Habib is worth a look - an uninhabited village, but beautiful nonetheless. 
• as is Al Ghaba, a wrong turn we took (to the right on the way up the mountain when we should have continued straight to the Saiq plateau.) - a working village in a steep wadi.

Getting Around

It's fairly easy to do this yourself (despite the lack of decent maps online) - people really are very friendly so long as you behave. But you will need a 4WD to get past the checkpoint soon after Birkat al Mawz, or if you just find you get more out of a trip with a guide, then you could try one of the many trek and tour operators like the following:

• For trekking with a guide, the best are probably These blokes
• For an easy day in a 4WD (you can see the Saiq plateau in a day-trip from Muscat), try Gulf Leisure or Panorama
• Or for something tailor-made, try Audley

Staying

• We're big fans of the Golden Tulip (affectionately nick-named the 'Golden Toilet'). It's not fancy, and it's not super cheap. But, it's in the best position (between Nizwa and Birkat) to explore the area, it's clean, the service is reasonable, it has large rooms, and a lovely pool surrounded in plush astro-turf. And the biggest plus - it has wine. If you look hard enough, you'll probably find a deal outside of holidays. Book early if you are going during a school break. They make super curries and fairly average buffets, and the pool barman seems to have a love of eighties ballads. It's a great place to relax after a day of walking.
• Sahab Hotel is a fairly new resort almost smack on Diana's Viewpoint, that will appease the luxury hunters. The restaurant is probably one of the better ones in the area too, and tries to serve some authentic regional (if not entirely local) cuisine. They have an infinity pool that pitches off into the sunset, and a native garden speckled with fossils. They also arrange activities onsite, so it's good for lazy planners. To be honest, we might end up here next time. At this stage, no liquor license.
• Until Sahab opened in 2011, people always stayed at the Jabal Al Akhdar hotel. It's well positioned and cheaper than the Sahab, but a bit tired.
• Misfah Old House is where to go if you really want to immerse yourself in Omani life. It's a little further out, and closer to Jebel Shams, but if you've got your own 4WD and you don't mind giving up the plonk for a few days, it's got a great reputation. It's only small and accommodation is basic, but it's fairly inexpensive and the cuisine is authentic Jebel village food, cooked in village kitchens around the house. It's in the beautiful and traditional hamlet of Al Hamra, so no buffoons allowed. Walking and horse riding trips can be arranged from onsite.
• For something a little outside the box, contact Hud Hud travels, who will set you up in a luxury camp and organise all the hard stuff for you. 

Eating

This gets a little tricky. Unfortunately, Oman is still an emerging tourist destination, and so both information and the physical presence of secondary tourism businesses (like restaurants) is a little lacking. So apart from the above, I can't help you out much with where to go. I CAN tell you what you should look out for:

• Qawha (kahwa) - Omani coffee, served in thimbles and flavoured with cardamom, very similar to Emirati Gahwa. If you don't get to drink this at least once, you're going to the wrong places.
• Halwa and Lokhemat (doughnut balls in honey) are accompanyments to the coffee, and also found in many other parts of the gulf region and beyond. Here, halwa is usually egg based rather than tahini, and so more like a firm custard, and flavoured with spices and rose water.  Lokhemat (we call them lgeimat here) are likely to be flavoured with cardamom, and lime.
• Oman Chips.... Yes, I know, not really gourmet, but considering a previous commenter (who doesn't understand tongue in cheek humor) described them as a "cultural expression", I thought I'd better include them. They are yummy - and definitely a step up from sweet chilli chips, and available everywhere.
• Harees is a wheat based paste similar to a porridge and usually served with spices, ghee and chicken. It's sweet equivilent, sakhana, is flavoured instead with date molasses, diluted with milk and is loved by all who come near it.
• I did manage to find Kabuli rice (apparently not hailing from Kabul) on the menu at the Sahab - a spiced rice dish with nuts and potato (and in this case, chicken). The other rice dish to look for is Aursia - a mashed rice dish, heavily spiced.
• Mishkak is something you will find everywhere - barbecued meat on a stick, marinated in a mild Omani spice blend. Hard to go wrong.
• Maqdeed is a dried meat, either served before Eid, or carried by travellers.
• Maqbous is the traditional main meal - a rice and meat (usually chicken) dish that many would compare to biryani, usually tinged with saffron, and often served with a spicy kick. Most buffets should have this.
• Shuwa is the delicacy to keep your eyes peeled for. It is really only a festival dish, and resembles what we call Ouzi here in Dubai. Slow cooked whole cow or goat in the ground with a multitude of herbs and spices. I'd really hoped the hotel would serve it during Eid. Aching to try it - if you find it, let me know.
• Of course, try the local fruits when in season. Look for figs (also dried), pomegranates, stone fruit, citrus (also preserved), and walnuts. You will find these fresh, but also in many local dishes. 

There's plenty more information available on the area on the web, but you need to know what you are looking for. Villages of course are spelled phonetically, and this can differ widely. Google maps only lists the Saiq village, however satellite images will show you where other villages and trails are. There's so much more to it than I've mentioned here - if you can't find the information online, ask at your accommodation. If you have the time, look up the Jebel Akhdar War, and find out why there is a military base in the area to this day. You can also find plenty of evidence of fighting in the relics left around the hills. Look up caving in the hills, and further out, towards Jebel Shams, particularly Al Hoota cave. And of course, if you're in the area, look at some other antique architecture in Birkat al Mawz, Jabrin (Jibreen) and Bahla.

And say "Hi" to those lovely kids in Al Ain for me xx.