Champagne on the brain.

"It's HOW MUCH?" asked my reasonably affluent but slightly grumpy husband. 950 Dihams. That's about $300, for dinner. Each. Champagne is not cheap, despite it's ability to turn all ladies into cheap harlots when they have enough of it. I suppose that's why he finally caved, rather than my reasoning - "We love a glass of good wine, we know exactly how much a bottle costs, how much we will probably drink, and for goodness sake, we get to try the Grande Dame. And there was going to be food, lovely food from the blokes at Table 9"... No - he probably just realised it was a good opportunity to have me bubbly.

There will always be that price barrier with Champagne for him, and I suppose for me also. I've recently discovered a Cremant de Bourgogne (Pierre Janny) that sells for about 80AED, at least half what we buy a lower level Champagne for. And it's turned my head, I must say. But I just keep coming back to the real stuff. Janny is my cheap little mistress, but I'll never marry her. As soon as a lacklustre vintage ruins her sparkle, I'll dump her. I'll never leave my three genuine wives - Joseph Perrier, Pol Roger and Taittinger.

I've been lucky enough to taste through some entire ranges of Champagnes in single sittings recently, so let me take you through the goods.

Veuve Cliquot:

At the dinner mentioned above at Table 9, where we were presented with Veuve Cliquot in all its glory, matched (very well in many cases) with a unique food menu. It's a hard task, matching Champagne to food, and one that cannot be undertaken without some very, very careful consideration. Firstly, it's acidic (not quite as sour as a lemon, but hovering around the level of a grapefruit) and very dry (I mean not sweet - we all know it's wet). Thirdly, it's flavours are subtle, delicate. Finally, it's choc-a-block full of carbon dioxide, which makes it taste drier than it actually is, and of course messes with texture pairing. The greatest matches on the night were a crab rillette in a cold melon soup with the NV Veuve, and a dessert of yellow peaches, raspberries and cream (with other gorgeous bits and pieces) with the Demi-Sec.

• Brut NV (Yellow label) - Current bottling seems a little lighter in character than some years. It can be a very broad and yeasty Champagne, but is very nicely balanced at present. Nutty, brioche, red apple. Not overly dry, and a good introduction to Champagne.
• Rosé NV - Generous red fruit on the nose, voluptuous palate full of wild strawberries and biscuit. Lovely length. Slight sweetness (only marginal, it's still a dry wine) and very fine bead.
• Vintage Rosé 2004 - Similar fruit to the previous but more toasty and yeast dominated. There is a huge candy/vanilla mid-palate that some will love, and makes it a great Champagne for food - Christmas turkey would be perfect. Trophy winner Decanter World Wine Awards.
• Vintage Brut 2004 - Presents dryer and crisper than the NV, with more bready character and a concerntration on mineral and savoury characters with some reserved green apple fruit.
• La Grande Dame 1998 - big yeasty nose with a slap-in-the-face character of honey and butter on hot toast. Threads of hair-thin bead trail in the glass. Lovely mineral/autolytic palate with a finish of strawberries and rhubarb laced with malt and sherbet.
• Demi Sec NV - served out of decanter in this occasion to limit bead. Sweeter of course, lemon-puff and candied peel style with soft marshmallow and white peach middle. A little short on the finish, but that's pretty common with a dessert fizz.

The hit:

• The NV Rosé - explosive flavour, very good value. 
• Grande Dame - for it's length, which just went on for minutes, and superb development.

The miss:

• The balance in the 2004 Rosé was a little off for me, but others loved that huge vanilla hit. A matter of personal taste, as can be seen by its trophy win.

Joseph Perrier

A few weeks ago, I had a look at the Joseph Perrier range at African and Eastern's trade tasting.  Jean-Claude Fourmon himself (GM of Joseph Perrier) took us through his wines, including some stunning new releases in traditional bottles (the 2004 BdB and Rosé). It took me straight back to Chalons in 1995, where an aspiring sommelier knocked on the door with no appointment, and the man himself shared a bottle of his Champagne with her and her two ragamuffin friends in his classic office - he's quite the brand ambassador - Non?

• Brut NV (Cuveé Royale) - My favourite NV at the moment. Intense nose of red apple, strawberry and croissants. Gorgeous autolysis character in the palate, very mouthfilling and creamy. Lip-smacking.
• Rosé NV - toasty colour, but clean fruit character on the nose. Ripe red berry characters, vanilla and floral nuances. The toast comes through on the finish, which is surprisingly very dry.
• Blanc de Blancs 2004 - Lovely pale colour and very fine bead. Aromas of citrus, apple and brioche. Very elegant wine, bracing acid and some minerality. Great aperitif style.
• Rosé 2004 - Powerful rose and strawberry nose with cream and biscuit undertones. Substantial mousse. Tantalisingly sweet fruit on the front - red fruits and candy, with spice moving through the palate. Beautiful.
• Vintage Brut 1995 - Richly developed. Some citrus and pear fruit, but dominated by toast, caramel and tobacco. Bead very soft, but definitely still present.

The hits:

• The NV - it's (almost) always a great one, with so much more flavour than many other NV cuveés. 
• The new 2004s were fab. I can't decide which is better. The Blanc was so clean, and the Rosé was super fresh - rare for a vintage rose. At this stage both are un-stocked in Dubai, but hopefully we'll see some soon.

The miss:

• The 1995. I drank quite a bit of this when it first came out, and it was one of the best 1995 Champagnes around, particularly for the price. Now, I find it's just leapt over the crevasse that separates perfectly-aged-wine and starting-to-wither. Some will still enjoy its very toasty characters, but I'd prefer to be drinking the 99 or 02  right now.

 

Laurent Perrier

Also tried at the A&E event, battling my way to the front of the table with so much resistance, I gave up before trying the vintage or Grand Siecle. 

• 

  Brut NV - tighter than usual, and edging towards a Moet style. Tart pear and greengage plum fruit. Slightly bready, with a little less yeast flavour than last bottling I tried. Lean, aperitif style.
• Cuveé Rosé NV - Strawberries, peaches and cream. It's very dry but not too lean, nor is it too developed and toasty, but has gentle hints of honey and biscuit. Beautiful shade of salmon pink with a substantial fizz.
• Ultra Brut- Fabulous bubbles - very fine, persistant and prickly. Zero dosage means totally dry, so not for wimps. Green apple, sherbet, lemon peel. A little brioche, but without food, it's hard to see the flavours. Hand me some oysters please!

The hit:

• The Cuveé Rosé. It's just so girly - I love it. And totally sold by the pretty bottle.

The miss:

• The NV. It's a little leaner than the old style, which I thought was right on the money - many may prefer this though, it's totally a matter of opinion.

Taittinger

A slightly shambollic dinner at Desert Palm showcased Taittinger's range, and the kooky style of self-proclaimed "black sheep" of the Taittinger Family, Clovis Taittinger, who refused to smile for a photo, instead insisting on sticking his tongue out. I'm endeared. I also got to meet the effervescent Champagne Jayne, who has somehow managed to make a career out of a tipple and a giggle.

• Brut NV - Always a favourite, and ever the crowd pleaser. Taittinger's NV is exactly in the middle of the flavour spectrums - dry and toasty, yet clean and fruity. The fruit profile is pear and orange peel, the development just right, a touch of mineral, and the bead exceptionally fine.
• Rosé NV - , but heaps of berry fruit and cream up front - it almost smells like dessert, but is beautifully dry. On the palate it's very creamy with elements of stone fruit and stollen.
• Comtes de Champagne 2000 - Incredibly powerful wine. Mousse is delicate, but bead is persistant and very fine. Yeast and developed characters are foremost but do not dominate, and are accompanied by whisps of white flowers, nuts and crisp pear. Palate is quite explosive, intense and full, then tapers beautifully into a lean, long citrus and mineral finish.
• Demi Sec NV - floral and fun with peaches and clemantines, a little biscuit and caramel.
• Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2004 (tried separately) - A very savoury rosé. Salmon/peach in colour with stone fruit, saline and sourdough on the nose. Palate is complex and mineral, creamy and bone dry. 

The hit:

• Comtes de Champagne 2000 - a blanc de blancs wine (100% Chardonnay) that spent 10 years on lees. Incredible. The best Champagne I've had in 10 years.

The misses:

• The Demi-sec is a little off the mark - a nice wine, but the sweetness covers any complexities that make it worth more than some great sweet Italian sparklers. 
• The Comtes Rosé was also a marginal disappointment after the Blanc de Blanc Comtes. It is a wonderful wine, but a very savoury and secretive wine for a Rosé. I expect it needs more time in bottle as the structure is there, but as yet the flavours are a little hidden. I would like to see it develop some richer toast and honey characters before tasting again. 

 

Bollinger

A few months back, was an evening with Bollinger and some marginally wanky behaviour at The One and Only on the Palm with Confrérie du Sabre d'Or. They're the blokes who dress up like Davinci Code cult leaders, enter to theme music from "The Mission" and swipe the tops off bottles with a whopping great sword. Unfortunately all the pomp and ceremony of the event sent me cringing, but I'll put up with anything to have a glass of Bolly in my hand. Luckily there was a sedate dinner at Voi later, where sadly they made a bit of a mess of the food matching. I think the Chef needs to be given some Bollinger freebies pre-event in order to get it right next time.

Beheading a bottle is easier than it looks, incidentally, and I would probably do it as a party trick if I could just get my hands on an appropriate sabre.

  

• Brut NV (Special Cuveé) - Known by many as the Champagne for blokes, it's exactly what you would hope. Big, bold, rich and meaty on the nose, but with some sneaky cooked apple and caramel flavours creeping into the palate. Plenty of body and a long dry finish.
• Rosé NV - Keeping in line with the Special Cuveé, it's a rich and meaty wine, but with the added bonus of redcurrant and cranberry, some strapping tannin and a little more spice. Good stuff.
• Grande Année 2002 - This wine has been on the market for a couple of years now (2004 in most stores now), but it's still very youthful. It's bracing and mineral, so those who love the NV style will have to wait a few years for age to bring the richer flavours. It's going to be great.
• Grande Année Rosé 2002 - That trademark Bolly grilled meat is on the nose, but partnered beautifully with red berries and rhubarb. The palate is still a little austere, and will take time to mellow. Another keeper.

The hit:

• The Grand Année 2002. Can't wait to see what this is going to turn into.

The miss:

• All great wines, so hard to find one. I just wish they had stocks to keep their Grand Année wines back a few more years like they used to. It's just so hard to watch a Champagne wait in the cellar. 

-----------------------------------

Now - I know I've made you all jealous. I'm a lucky girl to drink all that Champagne, aren't I? And there's a stack in there I haven't mentioned too. If you want to partake in some of these events in Dubai, this is what you have to do:

• Get yourself involved with Lime and Tonic, a social concierge who constantly have lush events on the go. (I found out about the Taittinger and Bollinger events through them)
• Subscribe to The Juice, an independent and anonymous blog detailing Wine and Spirits events in Dubai.
• Follow MMI on Facebook, or subscribe to Grapevine here
• Have a look at African and Eastern's "What's On" page every now and then. 
• And of course, follow me on Twitter or Facebook for updates from all the wonderful events that get plopped into my own inbox.

The Barossa - The Australian home of Shiraz and much more

The Barossa Valley was never my home - not at all... really. But it's funny - there is a feeling of homesickness being abated whenever I return. It's hard to figure out why - I'm from Melbourne - the city, in another state, and I've never lived in Adelaide, let alone the Barossa, and now I live in Dubai! But there are several other reasons for this feeling of warm nostalgia.

Firstly is my schooling. I studied wine marketing through University of Adelaide, a course that came from the best wine college (owned by said university) of Australia at the time - Roseworthy. A poetic name for a school, no? It takes its name from the tiny village in the Barossa Valley that it comes from.

Secondly, it's my career. For some years I worked for Pernod Ricard, who own several vineyards, wineries and brands in the region - Richmond Grove and Jacobs Creek being the big guns. Although I worked in the neighbouring state of Victoria, trips over the border and crawls back again were not uncommon.





Thirdly, it's the wine itself. As soon as any self-respecting Australian takes a leap from cheap sweet swill to real wine, Barossa Shiraz is the first step to perfection. It's ripe and fruity, laced with sweet oak, coconut and chocolate flavours, rich, full bodied to the point of unctuous, and is approachable at a young age, yet ages very well. It's a no-fail stop on the wine trail that will send you in the right direction, and prevent you from ever drinking crap again.

So when I step into the gentle folds of the valley floor, and look at the rise of the Eden Valley region beyond, the tank farms gleaming in the sun, the pretty German-inspired villages with their antique facades, when I smell the eucalypts, the iron in the soil, the raw sweetness of red being pumped over, the toasting of new oak barrels, the exhaust fumes from harvest trucks, when I hear the clatter of road trains, the thumping and clanging of tank-work, slurping of winery juice, and when I finally put the bundle of purple fruit that is Barossa Shiraz in my anticipatory mouth, I can't help but sigh, and think "There's no place like home".




The region is nearly all about Shiraz (Same grape as Syrah). Barossa Shiraz is popular the world over, because there's really nowhere else you can make a wine just like it. It's riper, sweeter, rounder than all others. Expect sweet dark cherries, blackberry and ripe plum primary fruit flavours, then a good lashing of oak - they love a bit of wood in this region. Both French and American, often new and highly toasted, add sweetness and spice. And then there's the chocolate. It's a bi-product of the fruit and the oak and a little time. It's most predominant in a wine less than 5 years old, and over time will mellow into mocha, coffee and liquorice bullets (another Aussie must). The most famous of all Shiraz from the Barossa is Penfolds Grange (they also make a decent cheapie called the Kalimna). But those who follow the region and are prepared to fork out similar dollars for some lesser known wines will tell you that the ones you should be looking for are Hobbs, Langmeil, Kaesler, Torbreck, Chris Ringland (three rivers), Greenock Creek, Two Hands, Rockford and more. But it's not just about the big guns. Expect to find plenty of fantastically drinkable $20 - $30 Shiraz around (Look to Teusner, Hently Farm, Elderton, Bethany, the Willows, Charles Cimicky) and even under that (Jacobs Creek reserves, Thorn-Clarke, St Hallet, and many love the syruppy Pepperjack).

But there's more to find - also look for Grenache, Riesling and fortifieds. Grenache is sweet and raspberry driven, and often very high in alcohol (some over 15%!). Some of the vines in the region are exceptionally old (Cirillo make a Grenache from 1850 vines), and many are grown as bush vines (meaning no trellis), making them a sight to behold, particularly as bare stumps in the winter. Often the varietal is blended with others, and the GSM (Grenache Shiraz Mouvedre) blend, made famous by Chateauneuf-du-Pape (but some would say, quite cheekily, perfected by those in the Barossa). Next, seek Riesling, which can be wonderful from the higher altitude rim of the Eden Valley. It's fresh and limey, often laced with floral hints, and backed up by some very good minerality. It ages perhaps better than any other Australian Rieslings. Labels to look for would include Mesh, Henscke, Steingarten, Heggies, Eden Springs, Pewsey Vale, Dandelion and Small Fry. Fortifieds are losing steam, but many of the older establishments still have ancient soleras chugging out divine nectar. Port styles everyone knows, but in Australia, you should always seek out Muscat and Tokay. You will NEVER EVER come across a sweet wine so good for the price again (varies from about $10 to $100 depending on the age).

from danmurphys.com.au

The Barossa region actually includes both the Barossa Valley and Eden Valleys. The major towns are Lyndoch, Tanunda, Rowland Flat, Nuriootpa, Angaston, Kyneton and Eden Valley - basically key one of those into your GPS and then look for the signs to individual cellar doors. (Or take my pick of the wineries below)

What to do

• Cycle - its a good way to work off all that wine and cheese, and takes the risk out of drink-driving. Although I have a friend who has been arrested for drink-riding. I suppose it's all a matter of degree.
• check out the barossa museum or Train-spot along the Angaston line (much of it disused) or check out the Lutheran churches for some olde worlde charm
• visit the Kaiser Stuhl conservation park or maybe the Lyndoch Lavender farm or the Barossa Chateau Rose Garden if you want to see a bit of greenery.
• Cheese tasting is of vital importance (to line the stomach).
• Festivals - You've just missed the Barossa Vintage Festival (don't worry, there's one every year), but there's plenty more to come. The Barossa Gourmet Weekend is in August, and you can keep abreast of smaller happenings on the events page here. 
• Farmers Markets at Gawler, Mt Pleasant and Angaston.
• Ballooning is also very popular in the area - despite the name, the area is remarkably flat, and it's quite a sight from above - clear Australian skies and patchwork fields reaching the horizon.
• But basically you're there to drink. If you don't want to do it by yourself, then try Barossa Taste Sensations, Barossa Tours. or Barossa Trike Tours as they have a very good track record - there are plenty in the region, so you may find something a little more tailored to your style just with a little research.  

If you know how to use a spittoon, or are fortunate enough to have a designated driver, then you will be able to pick and choose from the multitude of winery options. My pick for a good cross-range would be:

• Jacobs Creek - besides my obvious bias derived from working for them and the 'wine allowance' they used to provide, it's a superb contemporary building (they also have a heritage centre complete with producing cork trees at another site), and they have a small vineyard of all their varietals that allow you to check out the differences, and in season, taste grapes fresh from the vine. There's so much more to this place than the cheap Chardonnay you've been drinking at barbecues for the last 20 years. They also have some cellar-door only wines, so you can surprise all your wine-snob friends with a limited release JC Fiano or the like.
• Bethany Wines is a much smaller outfit, but they still make a large range of wine styles. Their Shiraz is gorgeously plump and ripe whilst not being overtly expensive and is usually worth the detour. The cellar door is charming - It's one of the oldest established wineries in the region, and has quaint stone buildings. At present there is a small art exhibition also onsite.
• Seppeltsfield is about as big as Barossa wineries get, and also one of the oldest. They have extensive cellars and grounds, a string of heritage buildings, cooperage onsite, and a restaurant. It's also possible to grab a patch of grass under one of the 2000 palms and have a picnic or barbecue. There are some table wines available, but the focus here is on fortified wines - tawnies (ports that are not port because they are not made in Portugal) and some luscious Muscat and Tokay.
• Langmeil have a lovely selection of powerful reds, and a gorgeous sparkling Shiraz. Their family-run cellar door will enamor you. Another historic homestead, but not just that. Despite the enormous price of their reds, this group are very laid back and friendly to thirsty travelers.
• Kalleske have just recieved a crown for their 2011 GSM, which has been awarded the biodynamic wine of the year at the International Wine Challenge in London. Here, the novelty is in the vineyard. Organic/biodynamic production, and a unique presentation of the vines with cover crops makes for a nice set of photos. There is of course some smashing red here. You can read their blog to keep up with the process until you get there. 
• Rockford has to be visited. It's beautiful, but also their winemaking produces Shiraz with such a chocolatey flavour, it has to be tasted to be believed. 
• Henschke are one of the only Eden Valley wineries it's possible to visit without an appointment (much of the fruit from the rest of the region goes down to the Barossa floor for production). Lovely Riesling as well as Shiraz (of course).
• Mountadam is the other big Eden Valley producer, with one of the only consistently great Chardonnays to come out of the area (it's usually a big buttery one). It's the highest vineyard in the area too, so expect some lovely views.
• The little guy in the Eden is Small Fry wines, who taste at the Barossa Farmers market in Angaston, and then (usually) open up at the winery that afternoon. Otherwise appointment only. Nice Riesling.
• The Taste Eden Valley Regional Wine Room will allow you the opportunity to taste many wines from the region, many of which have no public cellar door to visit. Torzi-Matthews, Poonawatta, Radford, Eden Hall, Dandelion Vineyards, Henschke and more.
• Artisans of the Barossa have a similar setup, and have some superb boutique product for tasting. John Duval, Hobbs, Spinifex (a favourite of mine), Massena, Schwartz, Sons of Eden and Teusner. There's some great little tasting plates available. Tastings are paid however, so be prepared to shell out. It's worth it - you'll get the cream of the crop here.
• There are others if you get through these - Torbreck, Penfolds, Grant Burge, Schild and more - Barossa.com have a great site that will help send you in the right direction. 

 Where to Stay

• Budget options include Barossa Backpackers in Tanunda, with beds starting just over $20, and single rooms from around $70. It's pretty basic, but has a lively atmosphere, bikes to hire, and a fairly good reputation. Second would be the Tanunda Hotel - a true country pub with clean neat accommodation and a classic dining room. $70 up to about $200 depending on season and room. Vine in Barossa is a good option if you like a round of golf as their price often includes one thrown in. Clean, well presented rooms, but nothing super flash from about $100 up
• Middle of the road is mainly B & Bs, but if you prefer chains and the reliability they offer, there is always the Novotel Barossa, which is beautifully positioned to provide sunset views over vines and the tanks at Rowland flat. Rooms are reasonable for the price, which starts at about $200. Whistler Farm has only two rooms, but they are possibly the most respected in the area. Nicely furnished, beautiful gardens, lambs and roos on the property, a library, family run. Sweet suites from $195. Barossa House is also small, with quaint finishing and a family touch. They also have a chauffer-driven car onsite if you want to organise tours through them. From $175.
• Larger wallets will send you to Abbotsford Country House, multi-award winning, views, views, views, lucious breakfasts, silky linen, fancy toiletries and a coffee plunger rather than a sachet of Nescafe (yes, I appreciate the smaller things). Prices around $300 and up. Otherwise if you want to totally blow it, try the Jacobs Creek Retreat, which has a gorgeous pool, Original 1837 homestead, italianate topiary gardens and the Moorooroo Park Cellar Door onsite if you need a wee tipple after a hard day on the road. Starts at about $700. And finally, The Louise, where a room will set you back around $500 to $1000 a night for a more contemporary experience. All the luxuries you would expect at this price, but the added bonus of one of the best restaurants in the Barossa at your doorstep - Appellation (more below)

Where to eat

• You can't go to the Barossa without seeing Maggie Beer - she's like mother to the region and to all of us who like good home-cooked food. Local, seasonal produce, many of which can be purchased in a jar to take home. Cooking demonstrations most days at 2pm.
• Die Barossa Wurst Haus Bakery is fairly casual - bread of course, as you'd expect, but also a swathe of traditional German dishes, particularly wurst and sauerkraut (the region has a strong German heritage)
• More cafe atmosphere, and the best cuppa in the Barossa and a classic breakfast (cleverly served all the way through lunch) can be found at Blond coffee
• Winemakers favourite is Ferment. Modern South East Asian Cuisine (Vietnamese owner) with a fantastic wine list and a possibility of BYO (as long as your wine is as good as theirs!)
• 1918 is a Bistro in the old Wallent home on Murray St (Tanunda's main drag). They have a garden where it's possible to dine, but most of the food is served in the rooms of the near-100-year-old house. Food is full flavoured local produce with fresh salad flavours alongside.
• Appellation, as mentioned above prides itself on serving 85% of its menu within 30km of the point of harvest. Dishes are carefully put together to hit all senses well, with a concentration on texture and contrast of flavours. Modern Australian - interesting without being molecular or nouvelle.
• Hently Farm is the big one. This is where you go with all your hard-earned cash and spend $210 on a "discovery" wine and food degustation menu from the Barossa. It's amazing. You can opt for the cheaper 'de jour' option at $115, but... you only live once. There's also a cellar door for wine tasting.

Well, have fun folks, and please toast me when you're there xx

Where everyone sees life through rose coloured glasses

When travelling provence, it’s hard to get away from rosé. It seems to flow through the hills like a secret underground river, always popping up just when you need it. Bars, restaurants, cafes, market stalls, supermarkets. Im convinced there’s also a magic rosé fairy that delivers an extra bottle to the dinner table, just when you thought you’d had enough. It leers at you all beautiful and alluring, glittering like a pink diamond, saying “Drink me”, and like Alice, you do – without question. Sometimes it’s light, fruity, laced with a touch of residual sugar. Other times it’s as playful as candy-floss, popping like bubblegum and surprising you with it’s dryness. Occasionally you get a serious one, varying from the deep and berry-filled, spicy as a Cumberland jelly wine, to the rhubarb and rose, mineral and onion-skin coloured rosé that just makes you want to cuddle everybody.

Not only that, it’s cheap. Even your wallet will join in the haunting calls of the rosé siren. It’s possible to get good Provincial rosé for 3 Euros a glass in a café, or 6 Euros a bottle in a store. The great ones rarely hit 20 Euros. Why? Because it’s fairly inexpensive to make, is quickly made (usually just pressed and fermented – no leaving on skins and monitoring for days and days) seldom needs oak (and if it does, it’s second hand), doesn’t need to age in the bottle before release, and can contain almost any grape variety the winemaker has leftover from harvest. For this reason, it also attracts quite a bit of criticism from wine snobs, but that’s fine. WE know it’s often complex and insanely drinkable. They can keep spending 50 Euros a bottle on Sancerre to go with their summer luncheons, and we’ll just titter behind their backs.


There are several regions producing rosé in Provence, one of which contains my favourite sub-region, plus a border beauty you cannot forget from the southern Rhone. There's other wine regions just on the edge of the rhone, and yet still in greater Provence, and there's always the good old vin de pays (country wine) of Provence, referring to wine made anywhere in the area and for some reason not fitting into a region, e.g. it is blended from several regions or breaks some rule in the particular region from which the wine comes (e.g the grape varieties included).

Côte­s­ de­ Pro­ve­n­ce AOC is the largest region, and covers over 20,000 hectares of the Var, Bouches du Rhône and Alpes Maritimes departments. It’s therefore difficult to pinpoint a ‘terroir’ and narrow down what one should expect in the bottle. Soils vary from limestone to alluviam soil to sand, altitudes are a regular rollercoaster. The most predominant features are free-draining soils and good ventilation (helps avoid frost), with some pretty hot summers. There are now three designated terroir denominations with more specialized wine types - Sainte-Victoire, Fréjus and La Londe.

Chateau Peyrassol 
Flassans sur issole, not far from Brignols. Two levels of rosé, both good at twice the price. Ancient vineyard goes back to the 13th century and the Knights Templar.

Chateau Margui
Just outside of Châteauvert. Renovated Chateau – at this stage no restaurant but beautifully done, and can be viewed and toured (appointment best)

Clos d'Aalari.com 
A female run operation, small, with a lovely homestead and even some accommodation. Just outside Lorgues. Gorgeous rosés, particularly the “Grand Clos”

Chateau Sainte Roseline
Winery and abbey in Les Arcs-sur-Argens. Pristine, and with many levels of rosé to try. Gorgeous.

Clos Des Roses 
Just outside of Frejus, with some great value wines and a super restaurant. There is also a hotel and divine pool.

Chateau Berne
Ooh la la – this is not just a winery but a resort with a chateau, three restaurants and a day spa. For those who like it five-star
The­ Co­te­aux­ Varo­i­s­ AO­C is in the centre of Provence, running from the Var down to the border of the Aix en Provence region described below. 60% of the region is dedicated to rosé production. It’s an area that has attracted some interest from wine producing greats from other areas like Burgundy due to the altitude and protected cooler climate. Main grape varieties grown are Gre­n­ache­, Cab­e­rn­e­t S­auvi­gn­o­n­, Ci­n­s­aut, Mo­urve­dre­, S­y­rah an­d Cari­gn­an­.

Chateau la Curniere 
Rambling gardens, chabres d’hotes and Turkish delight rosé. Route de Montmeyan - Tavernes

Chateau Margilliere 
can be visited and also has a B&B if you want to stay. Rustic chateau and a couple of rosés to try.

Chateau Fontainebleau le Val, near Montfort sur Argens can be visited by appointment by calling 04 94 59 59 09, or emailing info@chateaufontainebleau.fr

as can Château Miraval on telephone 04 94 86 46 80 or by emailing info@miraval.com

Th­e­ C­o­te­aux­ d’Aix­-e­n­-Pro­ve­n­c­e, just to the west of the Varois, and then reaching south and north as it continues further west,­ is­ th­e­ s­e­c­o­n­d l­arge­s­t wine region in Pro­ve­n­çe, at around 4,000 hectares. It takes its name from the engaging and historic town of Aix-en-Provence (“Ex” to the locals). Only 35% of this region’s wine produce is rosé, but there’s still plenty of it. Major grape varieties include Gre­n­ac­h­e­, C­in­s­aut an­d Mo­urve­dre­. Rosés here are usually fragrant with plenty of redcurrant, raspberry or other red fruits, sometimes with a slightly herby/peppery twist.

Chatea Calissanne
An historic chateau with 1000 hectare estate and a lovely curranty rosé. Not far from Lançon de Provence, where they also have a boutique.

Chateau Revelette 
Lovely property with stunning wines, not just rosé, and a joint venture producing wines in Catalonia too. Near Jouques, NE of Aix.

Chateau Paradis 
Very well made and squeaky clean aromatic rosé that is very good value for money. Quartier Paradis, Le Puy Sainte Réparade

Les Baux-de-Provence AOC is within the C­o­te­aux­ d’Aix­-e­n­-Pro­ve­n­c­e. It’s a toasty little center, rocky and coated in gnarled old olive groves, and even the surrounding valley of central village Les Baux-de-Provence, is named the Valley of Hell (Val d’Enfer). The wine production is focused mainly on viscous and velvety fruit-cake styled reds, but there is some excellent rosé and a little white too. Rosés are usually lighter in colour, ranging from pale salmon through to a barely-there stain of peach. They are lean and rhubarb on the front, creamy and floral on the middle palate and honeyed, long and mineral on the finish. Les Baux is also an entirely bio-dynamic region, a regulation self-imposed by the small group of winemakers in the region to stop chemicals being blown around the valley by the hellish seasonal Mistral.

Mas de la Dame
Surrounded by rocky olive groves and crispy yellow fields. It's not hard to see why Van Gogh painted it. Great rosé, but the rest of the wines are also superb.

Chateau d’Estoublon I have blogged about previously. Lovely chateau, restaurant, chapel, and more

Chateau Romanin 
A must. The rosé is good, the white and red excellent. But go to visit the underground cathedral that is the wine cellar. Amazing. Cooking school also sounds interesting! Near St Remy de Provence (direction Orgon) 

  
Bandol is the region probably most known and respected, even by international wine snobs. It stretches around it’s namesake village of Bandol (a large fishing village with a sandy beach and superb market, well worth a visit), and around the equally visit-worthy Cassis and Marseille. It’s a fairly small region, covering only eight communes. It’s free-draining limestone soil and mediterranian climate lend the region towards the production of Mourvedre (malbec), which is always at least 50% of the blend. It’s a marvellous for the production of rosé, with it’s earthy and almost savoury nuances complimented by some very forward strawberry notes. Bandol rosés are often a little bigger in body than the other rosés of Provence, making them an ideal match to the full flavoured seafood dishes of the area, namely bouillabaisse.Chateau de Pibarnon
La cadière d'Azur. Spicy, pomegranate-like rosé, beautiful chateau and terraced vineyards (restanques)

Domaine Tempier 
World famous, and one of the most respected wineries in the area. They can be found just near Le Plan du Castellet

Domaine Ott 
Again, are world famous, particularly for their amphora bottles. Visit Chateau Romassan, Route de Mourvèdres, Castellet

Or try the smaller Gros nore - they produce one of the most intense rosés in the region, and a lovely red. La Cadière-d'Azur


The Coteaux de Pierrevert AOC is a small wine producing area of Provence, geographically, production-wise and also reputation. It is a slightly cooler area, producing lighter wines. There are many domains to visit, but I’d suggest starting at the Cave Pierrevert, in the village. They are open for tasting Monday to Saturday with a siesta from 12 to 2pm. Saying that, Chateau Rousset is a worthwhile trip.


The outsiders
There are two regions that cannot be forgotten on a rosé journey through Provence, but they lie geographically just outside the boundaries of the Provence wine region.

Tavel
(blogged about by me here) Most southerly Rhone AOC, just across the Rhone River from Avignon. 

Chateau d'Aqueria
Beautiful chateau with wines from Lirac too.

Domaine Mordoree
One of the best rosés I have ever tried. Right in town


Montezargues
Owned by the same group as Chateau La Nerthe in Chateauneuf du Pape, with similarly pristine wines.


Cotes de Luberon

A region that encompases a whole heap of great cheap red-producing towns of the southern Rhone, plus some decent (if a little light) rosés.

Chateau Val Joanis 
Incredible gardens and cherry-scented rosés. Near Pertuis

Château La Canorgue 
You may recognize from the film “A good year”. An organic setup near Bonnieux.

Chateau Turcan 
A nice range of rustic wines and an wine museum full of antique bits and bobs. Route de Pertuis, Ansouis

Saint Pierre de Mejans 
Ultra pale and floral rosé, and 11th century abbey is a must. (It’s also possible to rent a 3-br area in the chateau by the week). Near Pertuis. 

Wine me, dine me

There are different kinds of wine dinners.

First, you have the sponsored wine dinner. It's a mutually beneficial event for both restaurant and winery. The wine brand will supply the wine at a reduced rate, maybe kick in a bit for advertising, and bring along a wine maker or brand ambassador to talk to the eager diners. The restaurant will partner the wines with carefully selected dishes, and hopefully manage to pull off a complimentary merger. This will all depend on not only the chef's palate, but quite possibly the sommelier's (if they have one), and whether or not the wine brand have had the insight to provide a free sample (vital!), and the desire of the chef to please his/her diners. Diners will be both regulars and people from far and wide - they follow either the food or the wine, and so may never have heard of the restaurant, or may be new to the wine. They will attend in groups and dine at separate tables, but will most likely join in discussion through the night, and the speaker will hopefully do a tour of duty to all tables, having a sip and a swirl at each, and probably fall down the stairs on the way out.

Secondly, there is the "educational" wine dinner. In this case, there is definitely a sommelier (or someone who thinks they are a sommelier) present. It will probably be instigated by said sommelier, who will select a theme and suggest flavours or even dishes to the chef for accompaniment. But this dinner is most certainly about the wine, not the food. The level of "education" will depend on the style and reputation of the restaurant, and the fervour of the presenter, and can be anything from a champagne piss-up with all the oysters you can eat, to a guided tasting of obscure reds from the foothills of the alps, partnered with micro-cuisine and a series of foams and jellies. Diners will most likely mingle, definitely be regulars, and, depending on the caliber of the tasting, will be anything from enthusiastic amateurs to total wine wankers. Guaranteed, they will be piss-pots, and will remember nothing they learned, and the "education" they received will be forever relegated to those little grey cells in the brain they just killed.


Next, there is the trade dinner. This is an event entirely sponsored by the wine brand to woo their clients and entice them into buying their lovely product. Much time and effort will go into the food matching - the winery will want the food to be excellent, and yet sit behind their magnificent wine, contrast a little and compliment a lot. Presentations will involve audio visual equipment and glossy branded brochures. They will be technical, detailed and hold up the main course so that everyone is thoroughly bored and starving by the time it arrives, and the food will be overcooked. They won't notice however, because they are too busy heckling with peers and throwing back sample-sized glasses by the dozen. The attendees are only there to catch up with others in the business, and despite all the time and effort, will barely notice the product at all.

Lastly, and rarest of all is food focused wine dinner. It's a little like the educational wine dinner, but rather than the food being designed to partner the wine, the wine is chosen to partner the food. Again, the quality can vary, but usually it's upper echelon. The food will often be themed - either seasonal, celebrational or experimental. Next we pray there is a sommelier with integrity present, and they don't just drag out all the bin ends and hope that somehow they can match all the wine they can't otherwise sell with the splendiforous cuisine they prepare. There is no presentation, no discussion. Diners will usually be repeat customers, but events of excitement can draw in guests a little further flung. They come for the food, and so will be the most demure of all the wine-dine categories, and tend to keep quietly to their own tables.  Whether they leave swaying or not will depend very much on the quality of the aperitifs and the number of courses.

Those who are wishing to partake in a little themed tipple might want to look into the following:

• For a structured yet fairly casual blind tasting (themed), followed by dinner with the Dubai Wine Club, visit here: www.meetup.com
• Wine retailers have clubs that can be subscribed to, where you can find out about wine dinners (usually on a weeknight, and with three days notice - argh!) and other events: MMI here, African and Eastern here, and Les Clos here.
• Some bars and restaurants have several wine dinners or at least wine tastings throughout the year: Oeno Wine Bar, Table 9, Rostang and Ossiano at Atlantis, Asado (reviewed previously), Le Classique and The Cavendish (reviewed below).

If you want to go to a trade dinner, you're going to have to get yourself into the biz.

----------------------------------------

Feathered Game Wine Dinner (Oct 9)

The Cavendish have taken the food focused approach to wine dinners, as I found when I attended their Feathered Game evening. Fortunately, the feathers had been removed. Fortunately still, the entire dinner was a bit of a surprise - a pleasant surprise.

I had missed out on the Table 9 Cossetti dinner (a restaurant I love, and some interesting wines from Piedmont) who unfortunately decided to throw their event on the same night. The Cavendish however invited me first, and even comped me, so I begrudgingly caught my taxi in the opposite direction, heading to the skyscraper wasteland that is JLT.

For the umpteenth time in my life, I was reminded not to prejudge. The Cavendish is not a dark English pub diner as I had expected, and the Bonnington is far from the backwater lego building that I had assumed. They are both quite five-star, and despite a couple of personal design hates (a marble lined foyer that feels like the gullet of Hades and the dreaded table skirts on everything with legs - even the chairs were wearing dresses), it was nicely swanky. They've also pulled some prime staff from other very fine establishments. Bernd Zeithen, Assistant F & B, who was attentive all evening has come from the One and Only Royal Mirage, and Cavendish Chef Paul Bussey has had stints at some other English greats like Verre, The Ivy and Rivington Grill. Not only that, they're both pretty keen, so hopefully they continue and turn the Cavendish into a destination that's worthwhile on attending even when there's no wine event.

The food was in four cases, divine, with only a couple of dishes missing the mark.


They started us with a Graeme Beck NV Brut, served with a Roast pheasant consommé
with confit duck, herb and truffle tortellino. The sparkling is astoundingly good for a mid-priced champenoise - crisp and yeasty, lean and honeyed. The broth was incredible - full flavoured yet lean, and the tortellino was tender, tasty and perfect to start the evening. 

Entree was Pressed game bird and foie gras mosaic with brioche and rhubarb chutney, accompanied by a delicious 2005 Riesling Kabinett by Richter Wehlener. The mosaic (terrine), was very, very well done. Soft and flaking foul with buttery foie gras and a gentle gel holding it together with a little herb and peppery spice. The wine, though gorgeous, juicy and lush, aged nicely, was slightly ill-matched and faded behind the rich dish. The acid did slice through the creaminess of the terrine as desired, but the flavours and body were too light, and I would have preferred a fuller bodied wine - maybe a dessert wine with botrytis, or even a medium bodied and berry fruit laden red.

We had three main courses - the first a roast quail and wild mushroom pithivier (pie) with endive, toasted walnuts, celeriac and apple salad. This was knee-tremblingly good, and had not only the girls on our table, but others in the restaurant sighing and writhing with pleasure. The quail was somehow a fat and juicy slice, and encased like a beef wellington in the pastry. The salad was a perfect acid and herby flavoured contrast, also encluding some sweet and peppery watercress. The Syrah-Viognier from Porcupine Ridge was a close to ideal match - spicy, aromatic and sweet up front with a gentle cedary backbone.

The second main was fish - the downfall of every wine dinner. Why is it always the course where the organizers try to shake things up a bit? It would have been delightful with the Riesling, but instead came with a Hugel Gewurztraminer, which although on its own or with some rice paper rolls would have been perfect, had too little zing to counter the bacon. The other problem was that they had already given us red. A big red. So - pan-fried fillet of sea trout with braised baby gem, peas, wild boar bacon and horse radish cream, disappeared like the wine behind flavours too large to counter. Not only that, where was the feathered game promised? Nice dish, nice wine, but better skipped.

The third main was roast young grouse wrapped in bacon with bread sauce, game chips and its own liver on toast was let down by overcooked bird. The savoury and supple Nappa Valley Merlot from Swanson would have been a good compliment to the dish if I was still hungry, and the course presented better on paper than in person. The liver biscuit was super, but it was all I could fit in, particularly considering there were two more courses to come.

Pre dessert was a lovely little scoop of home-made mango sorbet with macerated raspberries mint, and lime foam. Just right. And Dessert was even better. Somehow I found room for the four little plates - a festival of rhubarb - as it was called by a member of our table. A strap of raspberry leather sat underneath a mini souffle, a crumble, icecream and a dried rhubarb straw. Incredible, particularly the souffle. The wine was quite good - a Montes Late harvest Gewurztraminer, but we passed over it for a little more of the sparkling, which, with it's own raspberry/rhubarb nuances from the Pinot Noir was a cheeky match.





Overall, a good night, with some great hits and a couple of misses, and I must remind you, paid for by the Cavendish. My companion however shelled out for herself, and was very happy with the value. I would go again. Next time, I would go for the three-course option rather than the 5.  Paul and Bernd - I'd love to see that mosaic/terrine and quail pithivier on the everyday menu, and thanks.


The Cavendish have their next wine dinner on November 13 - Furred Game (but probably served without the fur)